The
Costa Brava
L’Escala 5200
The southernmost town along the Costa Brava
in L’Alt Empporda, L’Escala is widely
known for its anchovy canning factories. Far
more tranquil than the busy package tourist
resorts further south, L’Escala is more
popular with local tourists. Sandy bays are
separated from one another by rocky outcrops
and backed by pine forests. The town itself
is pleasant, steep streets lead down to the
sea front on which a number of restaurants serve
seafood and tapas. The beaches are a fifteen-minute
walk from town and a toy train runs along the
path behind the beaches taking people to beaches
further away from the town. With a population
of 5500, L’Escala is one of the main fishing
harbours along the Costa Brava. Near to L’Escala
is one of the most important archaeological
sites in Spain. This site, at Empuries,
contains the remains of a Greek necropolis and
Roman ruins. It is about 2km north of L’Escala
just behind a sandy bay.
L’Escala is 25km from Girona and Figueres
and 18km from the A-7 motorway.
Moving up the coast from L’Escala, the
coastline is relatively quiet compared to the
rest of the Costa Brava. The Golfo de Roses
stretches between L’Escala and Roses,
encompassing the Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls
de l’Empordá. This natural
park takes up what is left of the Empordá
marshland which once covered the whole of the
Golfo de Roses and has gradually disappeared
over the years due to agriculture. The park
has a wonderful selection of birds, the widest
range of which can be seen during migration
season. L’Armentera is
a village just outside the park with a population
of 750. It attracts a few tourists and is set
back from the coast. Sant Pere Pescador
is the nearest village to the park. It’s
a fairly drab place but its position, adjacent
to the sea, means that it has been somewhat
developed and there are plenty of bars and restaurants
in this village of 1400 people. A market takes
place in Sant Pere each Wednesday. North of
Sant Pere, away from the sea, is the village
of Riumors with 200 inhabitants.
Roses
Roses is located at the head of the Golfo
de Roses which is a huge, sweeping
bay. Lapped by the Mediterranean and situated
underneath a medieval ruined fortress, Roses
has long been colonized, the Greeks taking advantage
of its excellent location in the 9th century
BC, calling the town Rhoda. Only the castle
and some remains of the old city walls have
survived as witnesses to Roses’ long history.
Today, Roses is a town of 12,000 people and
a thriving resort. The natural harbour makes
it a great place for water-sports and the 4km
of sandy beaches attract huge numbers of visitors
in the summer. Roses has all the usual trappings:
discos, supermarkets, nightclubs, English breakfasts
and an enormous marina.
Roses is 20km from Figueres.
Cadaqués 2000
Pleasanter and more low key than Roses, Cadaqués
has remained quite isolated since it can only
be reached by following a steep, winding road
that crosses the headland from Roses or El Port
de Selva. On the peninsula of the Cape Creus
with a tree-lined promenade and rocky bays on
both sides of the headland, Cadaqués
is a working fishing port. The steep streets
and whitewashed, cube-like houses make the town
quite picturesque. Popular through the years
with painters and artists, Cadaqués inspired
Dalí in some of his works. Since Dalí
built his house just outside the town in the
60’s, the town became a “trendy”
place to live and today it can seem quite expensive,
having attracted a number of rich home-owners
to the area. Cadaqués’ beaches
are all quite small and pebbly, and the nearby
coves and harbours are good to explore. A town
of 2000 people, Cadaqués has plenty of
shops, cafes and restaurants catering to its
visitors, including some smart boutiques and
art galleries. A market is held there on Mondays.
Cadaqués is 25km from Figueres on a winding,
hilly road. It can be reached by bus from Figueres.
El Port de la Selva
Another working fishing port, this town of 800
people is set by a natural harbour and its other
main economic activity is tourism. The town
attracts mostly families to its beachside campsites,
although the beach is not one of the best in
the area. There are a number of hostals, bars
and restaurants in the village.
El Port de la Selva is 30km from Figueres and
13km from Cadaques.
La Selva de Mar 180
A little village of 180 people, La Selva de
Mar, whose name means “Forest of the Sea”,
is the site of the monastery of Sant Pere de
Rodes, one of the most important monasteries
of the region. Dating from the 9th century,
this monastery is shrouded in legends of hidden
treasures and religious wars. The ruins of the
monastery are a marvelous sight and are generally
acknowledge to be the precursor of the Catalan
Romanesque style of church found throughout
Catalan.
La Selva de Mar is 2km north of El Port de la
Selva.
Llançà
Llançà used to be a tiny fishing
village, but its proximity to the sea and its
position on the Spain-France road and rail route
has made it into a tourist hotspot. The old
town is set away from the sea so as to escape
the attention of passing pirates in centuries
gone by. There is a pier in the town for yachting
and the beach is situated a couple of kilometres
from the old town. Llançà has
a population of 4000, numerous restaurants shops
and bars, and a street market is held on Wednesdays.
8km north of La Selva and 25km from Figueres,
Llançà is well connected via the
main N-260 road. It is also the point at which
the Barcelona train line reaches the coast again
and there is a train station in the town.
Colera
A coastal village with a pebbly beach, Colera
is one of the smallest villages left on this
stretch of coast with a population of 450. There
has been a little development in the village
and the beaches attract mainly locals and families.
There are several restaurants and bars in the
village.
Colera is situated on the windy N-260 coastal
road that runs between Llançà
and Portbou towards France.
Portbou 1700
The small town of Portbou (1700 people) is just
3km from the French border and has the markings
of a border town with day-trippers from France
stopping in the cafes and restaurants. The old
town centre is pleasant and there are lots of
little coves and bays to explore by the sea,
which are relatively uncrowded. There is a market
hall in Portbou, open in the mornings and a
street market that takes place on Fridays.
Portbou is 7km north of Colera on a winding
coastal road. There is a train station in the
town. |